Outside, the air was wet, cold, and windy. Inside, the air was warm, smoky, and aromatic. It was December in Virginia and Eric and I had just entered an Ethiopian Orthodox Church. The congregants, men on the left and women on the right, were captivated by the words of the clergy. Throughout the service several clergy members, led by Abba Michael, served the congregation; providing prayers, blessings, and holy water. Congregants, wrapped in their beautifully trimmed white cloth, were joyful and intently listening to the words of Abba Michael. It was the annual festival of St. Gabriel.
All photos on this page are by Eric Chang, echangphotography.com
I had come to this Church several weeks earlier at the invitation of Elizabeth, an Ethiopian woman who helped me a few years ago when I was teaching English to immigrants. She was getting her undergraduate degree in psychology, minoring in social work. She was able to receive class credit for helping at the community center, where I taught. I had several Ethiopian students and her presence bridged some language and cultural gaps for me. A few years later, I contacted her because I wanted to learn more about Ethiopian culture. As always, she was busy with classes, volunteer work, and family, including the coming birth of her first grandchild. But she was gracious and responded enthusiastically to my request. I had told her I wanted to share what I learned with others. She brought me to this Ethiopian Orthodox Church in Alexandria and introduced me to Abba Michael. They were both excited about the opportunity to share their culture with others.
Most Ethiopians are members of the Ethiopian Orthodox Church. So, the Church was the perfect place to start learning about the culture and traditions that Ethiopians in America practice. And here in the DC metro area is a very large population of Ethiopians. In fact, there are more Ethiopians here than anywhere else in the world outside of Ethiopia!
VISITING THE CHURCH
Eric’s and my first visit to the Church was to chat with Abba Michael. It was after a service and we were lucky enough to join him and other clergy for the post-service lunch. There we met Deacon Merkeb Zemba, who was to become our liaison as we learned more about the Church.
Eric and I attended three services at this Church – which has the longest name I’ve ever seen: Debre Kidusan St. Aregawi, St.Tekle hayimanot and St. Gebreal Ethiopian Orthodox Tewahedo Church.
The first service we attended was the annual festival of St. Gabriel, who in the Old Testament’s Book of Daniel, was sent from God to save three men thrown into a fiery furnace by King Nebuchadnezzar. Although we were strangers to the congregation, we were greeted warmly by everyone.
I quickly felt at ease. And this despite the fact that I mistakenly sat on the men’s side of the Church!
During this festival, the church was nearly overflowing with people. Clergy from nearby parishes joined Abba Michael to give sermons and blessing to the congregation. And there was wonderful singing and dancing by the Sunday School members – It was a wonderful time to be at the church!
CHRISTMAS
Ethiopia follows a different calendar than we do. I found this out after I asked a student how old he was and when he was born. He replied to both questions, but the math didn’t work. Then I found out about the different calendars and that Ethiopia is in a different year than we are. Right now, it’s 2020 in the US, but it’s 2012 in Ethiopia. In our September 2020, it will become 2013 in Ethiopia.
Another result of the different calendars is that Ethiopians celebrate Christmas 13 days after “our” Christmas. So, on Monday, January 6 at 10:30 at night, Eric and I went to Christmas service. Unfortunately, the service was to continue through the night and into the next morning – much later than we were able to stay awake. But we stayed long enough to sample the beauty of the service. It was another memorable and heart-warming experience!
In preparation for Christmas, Ethiopians fast for 40 days. That’s 40 of the 180 days per year that Ethiopian Orthodox lay people fast to recognize various Biblical events, and about 250 days per year for clergy. Fasting requires excluding meat, fats, eggs, and dairy completely from one’s diet. Only one meal is allowed per day, and that must be after 3:00pm. I remember teaching hungry students during certain times of the year. Despite the fasting, my students came and participated fully in the lessons. I’m not sure I could have done so.
SERVICES
On most Sundays, the priest arrives as early as 4:00 am to prepare for the day. He is followed by the monks and deacons. Eventually the rest of the congregation arrives mid morning for prayers and the liturgy. Following services, there is delicious food for all to enjoy. It’s a full day of worship and fellowship.
The church, with its beautiful and colorful paintings of biblical stories, provides the perfect backdrop to the congregation clad in white. The fabric worn by both men and women, netela, is a traditionally made cloth from Ethiopian cotton. I received such a cloth from my students and proudly wore it during the church services I attended.
As with many Christian Churches, music is an important part of the Church service. In the Ethiopian Orthodox Church, however, they accompany singing with drums instead of an organ or piano. The Kebero drum is made from a hollowed out section of a tree trunk, with cow hides covering both ends. A drummer beats both ends of the drum.
I truly enjoyed my experience at the Church. The sights, sounds, and aromas still linger in my memory. I will certainly return! I also plan to explore the Ethiopian culture outside of the Church and hope you come along with me!
RESOURCES
For more information on the Ethiopian Orthodox Church: The Ethiopian Tewahedo Church Faith and Order
For a historical look at the Ethiopian community in the DC metro-area: Why Is There Such A Large Ethiopian Population In The Washington Region?
For more information on Ethiopian community in the United States: Ethiopian Community Development Council